|
7/31 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Well, I know it's been a while since I had a chance to update everyone
on the progress and some people have requested pictures of the wheels
and tires. So lets do some catching up since the last update which
was back at the beginning of June. A lot has happened since then.
First of all I have just about completed all of the wiring. In
fact all of the pruning of the wiring harness is completed and all
I have left to do is wire in the relays for Russ' custom steering
columb abd blinker setup. Here you can see just how much wiring
I removed from the harness.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Essentials, Chilton's and Helms schematics |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
For those of you that would like to takle this wiring on your own,
The best advice I can give is to prepare yourself with good schematics
and a lot of patience. If I had it to do over again I would still
do it myself because now I have an intimate understanding of the
wiring in my car in case something ever goes wrong or I want to
modify/add circuits in the future. It's not for everybody and I
understand that Roger Stine does a great job of this for about $350.00
if your looking for a source.
Here is a list of the circuits/plugs that
I removed from the harness.
Another milestone, of course, was finally getting the 4 into 4
headers that I had been waiting for (for 4 months). I have to say
that these FFR pipes don't look bad. However, I did have to drill
out the holes that match up to the head because, well........frankly
they just didn't line up. Here are a couple pics of the uncoated
pipes. Looks like I'll have to relocate those fuel line connections.....Can
you say FIRE!?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Of course now that the wiring was completed and the headers were
on I just had to start the car. Dave Borden came by to help troubleshoot
some electrical issues, and after a run to the gas station to get
some petrol we fired her up. Oh man this thing is mean with the
e-cam Check this out - Audio
Something else that was recently completed were the frame modifications
necessary to run 315 tires in the rear. I know that this is a personal
preference thing, but for me a hot rod such as this just has to
have some serious meet on all four corners. Here are my tire and
wheel selections:
Wheels:
Front - Compomotive Halibrand Replicas 17" X 9" w/6"
Backspacing
Rear - Compomotive Halibrand Replicas 17" X 11" w/4.5"
Backspacing
Tires:
Front - Dunlop Sport SP 8000 275/40/17
Rear - Dunlop Sport SP 8000 315/35/17
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I'll be sure and let everyone know how these tires work out. This
is my first experience with Dunlop tires. They look impressive but
we'll have to test them out on the skid pad and autocross track
before giving an educated evaluation.
Back to the frame modifications. Surely those of you out there
with Factory Five cars know that these tires just wont fit without
making some changes. However, I think you'll be amazed at just how
easy these mods are. As you can see here the key it to remove some
of the "width" on the large 2X3 which runs accross directly
behind the seats.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Of course if you remove any
material from the 2X3, then you also have to relocate the 3/4"
tubes which attach at the edges as well. First I determined how far
I could go without running into the an obstacle which turned out to
be the roll bar mount as seen above. This allowed me to remove about
1-1/2" from bopth sides, which was plenty. This picture will
give you an idea of how much material I removed vfrom each side.. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I also ground more off with
a die grinder in order to clean up the cut and remove additional material
with more precision. I also completely removed all three of the 3/4"
tubes which attached to the end of the 2X3 to be replaced with "precision
cut" new pieces. These included the diagonal that runs from the
middle of the trunk forward, the short downtube from the top down
to the 2X3, and the short tube that runs from the door jam to the
2X3. |
|
|
|
|
|
Here are some photos of the
completed modification. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
As you can see, on the drivers
side we welded the diagonal tube to the back of the roll bar. This
should be a very good spot and allows the aluminum to mount as far
in away from the tire as possible. I was really pleased with the way
this turned out. So pleased in fact that while I had the welder handy
I went ahead and intalled my own trunk hoop based on the line formed
by the aluminum which forms the trunk top. Here's a couple good pics.... |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I think that should open up the trunk substantially, don't you?
The best part about the whole thing is that I origianally painted
the entire frame with POR15. After repainting these areas you can't
even tell that the modifications were made. Damn that turned out
nice.
|
|
|
Of course once I made these mods to the frame I also needed to
make sure the aluminum was going to fit well for the inside of the
fender wells. To do this I merely mounted the aluminum with a screw
and outlined where the new diagonal tube would be with a marker.
Then it was just a matter of bending the peices for the desired
fit..
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Here's some pictures of each side. ------->
They actually fit better than it looks in the pics.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Well that's about it for the update this week. If you'd like to
see pictures of anything specific just send me an emial and I'll
see what I can do about getting to it in a timely manner.
Contact Jeff
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Next Page |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|